Ist photooxygeniertes OTNE ein Kontaktallergen?  [02.05.18]

Prof. Schwack und Schweizer Kollegen untersuchen Octahydro-Tetramethyl- Naphthalenylethanone (OTNE) in Parfümen und Aftershaves

Kontaktallergie | Quelle: Wikimedia

Originalstudie

Schrack S1, Hohl C1, Schwack W2 (2018) Photooxidation of Octahydro Tetramethyl Naphthalenylethanone (OTNE) in Perfumes and Aftershaves. Photochem Photobiol. 2018 Apr 16. doi: 10.1111/php.12924. [Epub ahead of print]   

1 State Laboratory of the Canton, Basel, CH-4056, Switzerland.

2 Institute of Food Chemistry, University of Hohenheim, D-70599, Stuttgart, Germany.

Abstract

For consumer safety reasons, cosmetics that are exposed to light are evaluated with respect to phototoxicity and/or photoallergy (photosensitization). For perfumes/aftershaves, however, these tests are not performed with the cosmetic product but only with single fragrance compounds, which may influence the outcome. In the presence of a sensitizer, photoinduced oxidation of unsaturated fragrances might result in the formation of unwanted products. Therefore, using real samples, we studied the photodegradation of the common fragrance octahydro tetramethyl naphthalenylethanone (OTNE) under in-vitro irradiation, during indoor-storage, and after application on skin. OTNE and its photoproducts were determined by liquid chromatography (LC) coupled to diode array detection (DAD). Whereas OTNE itself was photostable, irradiation in the presence of a sensitizer and of aftershave/perfume samples resulted in a strong degradation. Photooxygenation was identified as the major degradation reaction for all three trials. OTNE photooxidation products were characterised by LC-high resolution mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS) and by high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) after derivatisation with titanium ethoxide and nitrobenzyl pyridine. Both HPTLC and HRMS data indicate that OTNE hydroperoxides are formed during irradiation.

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